Gaijin Gunpla

WIP part 3 saw us finish the lower body and what a lower body that is. This RG Sazabi is feeling more MGish by the minute.

Now it’s time to turn our attention to the top half and that starts with a frame part that makes up part of the top of the torso and some parts to make the neck joint.

Here is a closer look at that neck joint.

From here you grab this interesting looking frame piece.

This one requires a sticker.

Once you’ve got that sticker on cut out some more frame parts and complete this section of frame.


Now add some black to the sides.

You’ll notice little openings on the frame where the slats on the underside of the black part have to fit.


And check this out.

The entire upper portion of the frame tilts forward. Interestingly, that sticker you applied isn’t visible unless you do this.

Next up are the shoulder joints. The manual instructs you to build the right one first.

Similar to what we saw with the shoulders on the Thunderbolt MG you have to be careful to line up the parts properly because there are little tabs that must fit through little openings completely otherwise when you move the joint you’re wearing down plastic.

There are two such connections on one shoulder joint.


Once they are fitted properly you fold the joint up so it is compact. Watch those tabs!


Now build the left shoulder joint from the same parts.


Okay, now place those shoulder joints onto a larger frame piece.

You’ll need to be careful as you’ll need to push those joints down onto the frame completely but the frame is open at the back end and has a lot of flex. Support it well with your fingers as you apply pressure to get the joints in place.

Now place small circular stickers onto both sides of the black parts that make up the collar. You can see the circle showing where they will go.

And you’ll notice the stickers have a small opening on one side of the circle

You have to line that opening up in the right place on the black piece.

Now for the fun job of dropping the center frame assembly down through the middle of the shoulder joint assembly.

Once it’s in place you correctly you should be able to slide the center assembly forward.

I’m liking what I’m seeing.

A large black piece fits onto the bottom.

Oh, and now they tell you that you need a sticker here.

More black parts sandwich around the ring at the bottom.

These together make the peg that will connect the upper body to the lower body.

I’ve heard some rumours about this in the comments on previous WIP entries but I haven’t looked at anything online because I’m not going to spoil myself.

So now you have this.

It’s time to add colour. Let’s put the yellow belt on.

Place the small side red parts around the ring and then place the ring in its position on the lower body.

It will not stay in place until you pin it on with the small red part for the back.

Even so, the front is still loose.

You’ll secure that to but before that place on the yellow piece that goes there.

This fits between the ends of the ring. Once all yellow is in place put on the red cover which will hold everything in its proper position.

And add another red part while you’re at it.

And then the large red part that makes up the round upper chest.

This has to slot in perfectly against the black collar parts.

A red part is to go on under that.

and then the larger red parts that make up the squarish aspect to the torso armour.

Ooooooh yes!

Unlike some other RG (and most HG and MG kits) which have you complete the upper body before joining top to bottom the RG Sazabi manual instructs you to put the torso on the body as soon as you’ve assembled it. Reading a little about a possible problem with a peg somewhere in there before I had even gotten to this stage I had it in my mind to do exactly this.


I’m happy to report I had no problems with that connection.

And now this thing is almost too big to fit back in its box. I had to do some good space management to get this and all the runners in there together.

And I’ll be taking them all back out right away!

Categories: Builds, RG, Sazabi

7 Responses so far.

  1. Miah says:

    (I usually check this site to see if you’ve begun the build for this kit and see how the shoulder joint will do)

    Very nice! Guess it is proven that it’s human error if you break the joints at the shoulders. Nice to see someone didn’t break it XD I had my worries for this kit. But you did a very nice job explaining the process of building the shoulder part. I just hope it doesn’t give and break after posing it many times.

  2. Huey says:

    Hi Syd,

    The main problems came mainly from the shoulder joint, not the waist peg connecting the torso. Looking at your pics, the issue really does seem to be builder error (so many things to properly align) from those who were rushing for videos to get those sweet views from first impressions.

    Overall I’m liking the direction the RG Line is taking, even if it does mean that they will be “mini-MG’s” instead of the traditional RG-style of Advanced MS Frames.

    • Quan[T] says:

      Well, that just makes it an HG. The big part about RGs was the inner-fram

      • AzerX says:

        What Huey probably meant was the ‘pre-built’ RG advanced frame, you still build the inner frame (like also in the Tallgeese) and you can actually pose it almost in its full inner frame without armor in all its glory so yea its more of MG style than HG (most HG has hollow parts)

  3. Estoni says:

    the problem with the shoulder joint is when you try to conect the arm to the joint, most people will do like always, force the arm to enter the peg, if you do that here, you will break the peg inside, this is kinda like the Zeta shoulder joint for transformation, if you don´t know, it will break at first try.

  4. Stephen says:

    That thing has presence! Can’t wait for the review Syd, especially your thoughts on the proportion changes.

  5. cramp says:

    The part where you put the shoulder joint is not reliable. The upward and downward movement of the shoulder joint is ok but the sideward is the problem since it is too tight and needs more force to move and the support part is thin and soft which I think can hardly support the sideward movement.

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