Gaijin Gunpla

I just finished writing Pt.1 and here I am again putting pen to paper, or as this is the internet, fingers to keyboard. The lower body of the Sinanju has a lot of parts involved and so does the top portion though not in the same amount.

Before taking that very familiar arm frame off the B frame runner you need to assemble a couple of these.

These will be used as part of the arm frame meaning that B frame runner arm might not be used as we expect it. This isn’t unprecedented. If I recall correctly something similar was done with the 00 Qan[T] RG.

Assemble a couple of these as well.

That little red piece is a beam saber handle. On the MG kit you could fit the enter handle into the arm but that’s not possible on the RG kit.

Two of these.

Two of these.

Half of the cuff is assembled. Here is the other half.

The manual states there are undergates here but I found they were very hard to see due to the gold mekki reflecting the light but also due to the angle the tiny undergrate sticks out at.

Once you’ve got these pairs ready you can begin the arm.

Here’s the RG arm frame we know and, most likely, love.

You have to spin the very top 180 degrees.

Then you have to bend that section and the one below it outwards.

Remove the hand.

Slide a frame part into the gap in the back of the elbow area.

So here is where that first assembly comes in. You slide that onto the round frame parts that will become the shoulders.

The RG frame arm then sits in there perfectly and you can close it up.

To the back of the lower arm you add the beam saber holder assembly. It is sandwiched between two silver parts.

You can see how the fit is in this shot.

(I’m so detail-oriented in these Sinanju posts.)

Gimmick alert.

You have to put a ticker on each side.

Add the piping section you assembled already and then add the circles on the sides of the elbow.

Bend the arm and the place the front upper arm armour on followed by the rear piece.

I’m going to warn everyone here that the front piece needs to go on perfectly straight in order to go all the way on.


If not then the rear piece won’t connect properly and will interfere with the moving piece of frame that is underneath it. The first time I build this arm I did it without realising I needed to be careful. The next three times I built the arm I ran into the issue I just described. I once actually heard a click as the front piece popped all the way on.

Add the side armour for the lower arm.

Then the front and rear parts.

You can see the gimmick more now.

And make a hand.

You are given two types of hands. Well that isn’t exactly true. You are given the hand that grips the weapons, all of them use the same hand. And you are given one open left hand. You are also given the RG hands found on the B runner but those are not the same size as the Sinanju hands. This means you don’t have a hand showing the totally closed grip. I think I need to experiment.

Here are the hands from the HG Sinanju kit. Well, these are the hands for the Sinanju included in the HG Neo Zeong kit to be exact. (That monster is back in stock finally, btw.)

These hands are the same size as the RG hands I assumed and should work fine… I assumed.

Here is the curled fist that I long for.

The hand armour parts for the RG Sinanju are nice and glossy so I want to use those.

If I try to put these on the HG Sinanju hands it works.

But isn’t quite perfect. The fit is not quite there and that red part can spring off at any time so I need to cut away some of the plastic on the hands.

This is a little better but if I’m going to go this route I will probably have to glue the red part on there.

Compare this to the RG Sinanju hand.


Anyone notice the slight problem I will have?

The ball joint for the HG kit is much bigger than the one on the RG kit. It won’t pop into the wrist piece on its own. If I want it to work I’ll have to modify it. I’ll leave that for later.

Here is the wrist part the hand ball joint needs to fit into.

Place it into the end of the RG Frame and then you can put on those shiny gold cufflinks.

Put the back one on first and push it in until you hear a click. The second one should go on smoothly and snug against the first one.

Now for these two parts.

Each requires a sticker.

These go into the loop of the B Frame that is normally used to connect the shoulder to the torso.


On the MG kit this assembly actually hooked on the underside of the shoulder, if I recall correctly. They swing out quite far but most of that will be hindered once the shoulder goes on.

Slap the armour on there.

This is all one piece. Those spikes aren’t separate like they are on MG kits.
Note that the red piece can swing out separate from the silver section.

Check out the bend.

Build the other arm.

There are still shoulders to be assembled, of course, but the manual has you move to the torso assembly. That starts with the B frame torso section and the frame parts that make up the cockpit.

Unfortunately, your pilot isn’t in the proper sitting position.

Add frame parts to the bottom of the torso.

Next you grab the black part for the chest and add the gold parts onto that, but first put the inset black pieces into those gold parts.


This frame part goes on the back.

Large black piece for the lower torso slides on next.

Here is what Bandai has designed for the waist connection.

Insert the smaller piece into one of the larger sides.

Then close it up with the opposite side.

This three-piece assembly will attach the upper body to the lower body.

The two cockpit doors both consist of a gold piece inlaid with a black part.

They will just snap on.

Now for some of that gold and black magic that make this kit so special.

This area and that on the shield are two areas that really stand out as something that makes the Sinanju not just your normal 1/144 kit. Lay that black part onto that gold part and you’re all set.

This fits into a frame part from from below.

At this point you are instructed to put the arms onto the torso. Because the torso isn’t fully armoured it is easy to just slide the shoulder connections onto the arm pegs.


He looks a little empty when viewed from behind.

Push on the neck piece.

Now the side armour parts can fit on, putting them in place from below.

You can see how these armour parts are shaped to fill in that back.

You have to have the angle correct in order to fit it into its proper place.

You can then add the back armour part which is where you’ll connect the backpack.

Here you are supposed to add the gold and black parts that make the neck guard but I’m going to leave them off while I work on those shoulders.

On the Sinanju #1 kit the shoulders would come off quite easily. I want to look into why that happened. I’m going to test fit the one frame part is found on the shoulders.

I found that this piece can click into its place if the arm is positioned at the right angle.

If you have the arm down too low the angle changes and the bottom portion of that shoulder frame part will touch the side armour part. This will prevent it from clicking in all the way.

When assembling those magnificent shoulders you have to insert yellow parts into the underside of the large red parts.

Now for a silver part. It needs stickers too.

This is laid into the side armour piece.

When you close that up you have two parts left to put on.

But wait! Once of those parts has a hinge and is meant to open up.

Before you actually place that part on you have two foil stickers to put underneath so these will be slightly visible when/if you open up that shoulder.

Now that I”ve tested the shoulders I can go back and put on the neck guards.

The torso is finished off by adding the frame part and piping to the bottom.

So you have your upper body with its connection.

And the lower body with the peg.

Looks pretty good.

The head uses the only clear piece of the kit, for the mono-eye obviously.

Around a small peg on the clear piece you place a very small ring and once that’s on slide that up into the main head frame piece.

Looking at the head from the top you can see some of that clear piece. You can turn this and they eye will turn.


You have a sticker to put on the eye here.

Add the side armour.

Then the top, fin, and piping.

You can see the effect the Gundam Marker had on the vulcans.

I’m not satisfied with this so I think I’ll redo this when I get a chance.

Next time, the backpack!

Categories: Builds, RG, Sinanju

10 Responses so far.

  1. Chris says:

    oh my lord that frame conversion really rocks my socks

  2. Paul says:

    Any noticeable nub marks on the upper half so far? On the lower half you talked about how the thigh armor pieces have those thick gates.

  3. Sablenk87 says:

    Are the arm armors which store the beam handle bend outward when you bend the elbow, or is it can stay still?
    Apparently the colse fist hands come in p-bandai along with the bazookas.
    One more question, are bazookas from HGUC Neo Zeong can fit properly with RG’s riffle? if does, than it can be alot of saving considering we can also use the hands from HG sinanju.

  4. Michael says:

    I’ve found that the best silver marker pen is a silver sharpie (the original one)

  5. Joxef says:

    I didnt see a opening cockpit hatch what gives

  6. Amanda says:

    Watched a review and this guy complained how loose the parts are. Mostly in the waist section in which it was too finicky and flimsy. Seems like the review score on this will be around at 80

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