Gaijin Gunpla

Normally, having completed assembly of a kit, I would be be moving onto the review so this post should probably be a review of the RG Sinanju seeing as I built most of it live on camera in two hours and then went home and spent another hour and a half finishing it.

But… I’m not ready to review it yet.

Part of the reason I felt I wasn’t ready to evaluate the kit is that I rushed the build while the other reason, which more than likely stems from the first reason, is that it wasn’t doing what I thought it should do. In short, I was having problems with it and I wasn’t sure if it was a fault in the kit or in my rushed construction of it. Working with a camera rig in front of your face makes seeing what you are building sometimes difficult and you are distanced from what you are building.

In order to properly judge it, and let’s be honest here in saying this kit is a landmark kit and needs to be done correctly, I need to experience it properly. I want to build it, taking more time, being up close and personal with it. This means either taking apart the kit I already assembled or building another.

Or both.

And that’s what I’m doing. I am building a second kit and comparing it to the first kit. I am also going to be disassembling the kit built live and redoing it. But building two of the same kit at the same time can be a little tedious so I’m shaking up Sinanju #2 just a little bit.

That’s the H2 runner. It’s the all-yellow runner with little vents that you find throughout the kit. I’m not a fan of standard yellow especially going up against that glossy red so I decided I’d paint this runner gold.

Looks much better. I don’t anticipate I’ll have any problems with gate marks given that these parts are all trim parts. I also used a panel line marker to darken the recesses.


I’ll need these in a bit.

Another thing I picked up for Sinanju #2, or #1? I haven’t decided yet but this is an experiment that needs to happen.

Yup, water-slide decals for the HG Sinanju.

Will these work or are the proportions between the kits two different? We will find out.

I also got out something I haven’t used in some time.

Silver Gundam Marker. What’s that for?

For those head vulcans, of course.

Okay, let’s get on with the build from the beginning and I’ll show how it is meant to go together and my thoughts on particular areas that I was concerned with.


Yup, this is MS Joint 5. The same frame found in the RG Gundam Mk-II AEUG Version Prototype RX-178 and RG RX-178 Gundam Mk-II Titans. Many people picked up on this. It is definitely not something we could have anticipated going into the build though I don’t think it should surprise us that Bandai decided to use a frame they already had. Many RG kits share the same frame and it’s how Bandai builds the kit around the frame that is really interesting. For example, the MK-II kits and the GP-01 kits. The Sinanju as a Mobile Suit is much bigger so obviously Bandai has to buff up this frame a bit with separate parts but that is not unprecedented as the Qan[T] also had separate parts used to replace the standard RG frame joints.

The first step in the RG Sinanju build is to take off the feet from the B frame runner.

The manual has you cut them off and then pop off the rear heel section.

I knew that ahead of time for this second one so I took only the frame parts I would need off of the runner.

Now you need to assemble this joint (seen in the manual shot above).

You have to push these parts together with quite a bit of strength to get the gap to close. Afterwards you can see a gap from the back but this is meant to be that way.

On the end of this you are meant to place a foil sticker.

During the Live Stream I had problems with the sticker being pushed to one side when the next frame part went on so I decided to try and build the joint and then apply the foil sticker afterwards.

To build the joint you have to first prepare the pistons found on the B frame runner.

The manual says you are supposed to pull these out to prepare them.

This lays inside what will turn out to be the frame section for the heel.


Drop that frame section too the back of the foot around the little joint you already assembled.

Now to assemble those parts that are meant to go on after the sticker.

Note how the heel piece fits onto the B frame.

Two tiny tabs hold it on there. This is important to know because you’ll cover those up with heel armour and if you then try to take the armour off you’ll be pulling against those tabs.

So here you can see how recessed the section is that needs the sticker.

I can work with that.

Now you place a black piece on from above.

This doesn’t snap into place but just sits there. It’s the applying of the red armour parts that eventually holds it in place.

This is another area where I approached the build differently for the Sinanju #2.

You are meant to put the red parts on and then slide the black toe piece on the front afterwards. During the Live Stream I found the toe part could come off easily. I want to know why. So this time I put the toe part on first and then put the red armour parts in place.



The result, aside from a beautiful foot, is that the toe piece is in there very solidly and doesn’t suffer from the popping off issue I had with the first kit. Now for that heel.

Foot as seen from below.

Looking at the foot you have assembled from the side you can see a gap there between the frame parts that make up the ankle.

This can make assembly of the leg difficult but I’ll talk about that in further on. For now, I wanted to see if that foil sticker placed at the beginning could be seen when the foot is all armoured up.

At the right angle and bend, yes.

Before you can assemble the leg frame you have to prepare some parts, like these two gold parts.

Many of the gold parts have undergates.

They are not always easy to see but I’ll write more on this later as well.

Into these gold parts you have to insert the accompanying black parts.

You can see it is recessed slightly.

View from the back showing the connection.

I told you the WIP posts would be in great detail, didn’t I?

Repeat the process for the gold parts for the opposite side.

Here’s a shot to show how the gold runner is constructed.

Often gold plated parts are silver with a clear colour on top. This seems to be a yellow with Gold on top.

I’ve got more smaller assemblies to prepare before I can construct the leg proper.

These use stickers and thrusters. I’m fine putting the stickers on now but I’m leaving the thrusters off as I want to paint them. I’ll do that for any thruster found on the Sinanju during the build. I’ll show the parts though.

Some good detail inside of the thrusters.

These parts need the stickers.

While it looks like two stickers it is really just one with the middle part clear.

The top also gets a sticker.

I have a couple of kneecaps to prepare and then I can move onto building the gorgeous Sinanju legs.


Here is the RG leg frame as we know it.

The peg at the end is the section that usually fits into the skirt of the MS you are assembling but it doesn’t work that way with the Sinanju.

Instead you have to rotate that section 90 degrees.

Now you have frame parts to place around the knee.

In a couple of steps the manual will tell you to put stickers on these parts. I did it before putting them on the frame.

At some point you’ll have to insert the leg frame into the foot and you’ll be pushing down on that gap that exists in the ankle frame parts. On this kit I placed my tweezers into that gap and then inserted the leg so that I could get the connection as tight as possible.



That’s how it’s supposed to be.

I jumped the gun a bit here as you are meant to assemble more for the legs first. Now to cover up the hip joint and construct a new, larger one. To do that you place two parts around the hip frame’s joint.


Another frame part goes on from the front with its bottom edges just covering the knee frame parts you previously put on.

Now to construct the sides of the leg. Let’s start with the right side.

If I am not mistaken this assembly is like that found on the MG kit.


Add the gold part you already prepared along with a red part that goes at the bottom.

Insert the frame part that is supposed to have a thruster and a small armour piece.

Another frame part goes on the front.

Lay your leg frame into that section you just assembled.

Be sure that the ball joint on the piston is in its place.

You can then close the leg up by putting the frame assembly on from the other side.

Add on the first yellow part or, in my case, a gold part.

So sexy.

Now to finish off that hip joint. You need to place two parts on here.

Note the tab at the bottom. That fits the part at only one angle/direction.


Place those on then flip it to the other side.


This provides a nice strong joint without worry that it will come apart.

This same concept was found in the recent MG Full Armor Gundam Ver Ka Thunderbolt kit.

The Sinanju’s legs look so long without the armour on.

Add a small armour piece to the shin and one at the back.

I should be able to access this later in order to put the thruster on.

Now for the two armour parts that go on the thigh. There are a couple of thick gate marks found here so it could be tough to get them off without a blemish.

The thigh armour parts connect easily with the male/female connection.

Now to place the side armour parts on.

A small armour part fits on to fill the opening on the armour on the inside of the leg.

You’re putting the gold knee assembly and front armour piece on here as well.

Note the configuration of the small armour piece.

This corresponds to the frame part underneath that large side armour piece.

There is only one way this piece can go on.

I’ve got a couple more stickers to put on this piece I prepared earlier.

They are a unique shape and have to be lined up just right to get them to wrap around.


Now take from the C runner the parts you will need for this interesting little section.

First place in the narrow parts.

It takes some effort to insert them as far as they can go.

Add the center piece and you are done.

It is tough to get the pieces to all close together leaving no gap but it can be done.

Add the red kneecap here.

This is another part that I had experienced having fall off but this time it stayed on quite securely. I do feel that the connection is kind of shallow, though.

That’s a beautiful leg.

So beautiful that I don’t mind doing it again.

Check out how limber he is.

The large armour piece that fits onto the front of the lower leg can fit tightly against the other armour.

When I first assembled the leg there was a gap there. This time I pushed a little harder and heard a click or snap as it went in.

With those two legs out of the way you move on to the skirt. Or a bathroom break. Perhaps both.

When you’re ready you cut the skirt frame from the B runner.

Now you have to spin those little tabs around.

They are tough to get at. I found that tilting the ends of the frame around allowed me to access them much easier.

Remove another skirt frame section from the B runner.

Here you have to move the section that attaches to the leg pegs into its down position.

And then lock it in place.

Now to add some frame parts.

This will eventually become the important peg that connects the top of the body with the bottom.

“Sinanju Waist Peg Alert!”

Drop it onto the B frame.

Then drop the other B Frame on over top.

There is a gap between the frame sections.

Will it be sturdy enough?

Slide on a large armour part.

You’ve got the center armour sections to go no next but I’m going to leave them off for now so I can better access the connections where I’ll be connection the skirts to the frame.

I’ll prepare this though.

Once it’s on the Sinanju it may be hard to get at, though.

Now to the A runner!

It’s a mixed bag. You’ve got the rifle parts and the piping parts as well as the white parts for the backpack all joined onto one runner.

The white parts seem to want to come off so I’ll accommodate them.

You’ve got to insert one end of the piping piece into the gold part from the front.

Then slide it sideways so it is locked in.


Now you can place that gold part onto a black part.

Add a gold, I mean yellow, part to that black piece and then cover it up with the armour.

Repeat for the other side.

Here are the important connector pieces.

They go on the little pegs sticking out sideways behind the gold piece.


They can swivel slightly in there.

This connector piece then slides onto the small tab on the B frame area. Normally, you would sandwich around that tab but for the Sinanju you are sliding onto it.

I tried to push them as far as they would go.


Now I can add the front centre parts.

Here are the parts that make up one of the rear sides.

You can see a little sticker has to go on the bottom of the frame before you apply any armour.

Slide these on as best you can.

Now add the centre block.

You’ve got to add a small movable frame part into the gaps before covering them up.

You can attach the legs now.

Just the side skirts left

Another sticker goes on here.

Then put the armour pieces on.

I found it easiest to hold the parts like this and then placing the long, narrow red piece on.


Cool gimmick.

Add a yellow piece to the back.

Looks pretty good.


It was time to clean up and get to bed. Putting all the runners back in the box filled it and I couldn’t put my half-finished Sinanju in there.

It’s a big kit.

Categories: Builds, RG, Sinanju

14 Responses so far.

  1. Dan says:

    Can’t wait to see how the backpack is assembled!

    After seeing how the leg frame is inserted into that sub assembly I might do that step before assembling the foot. That way I will have more room to apply pressure to the sub assembly without risk of bending/breaking something.

    Thanks for the close up shots Syd, they help answer a lot of questions. I was also planning on painting the yellow vents to gold and was wondering if I could paint them on the runner. Looks like I can so far.

    I do have question about the thigh armor with the potential noticeable gate marks. If I end up needing to sand the armor parts would sanding with high grit sand paper (1,500 – 12,000) and then topcoat with a gloss clear coat produce a good result with the red high gloss plastic?

    Thanks!

  2. Phillax says:

    Oooh so tell us of the HG waterslide decals are usable. I’ve been considering the same thing, a magnificent kit shouldn’t be fitted with lowly stickers!

  3. Charlop says:

    I honestly can’t wait to get my hands on this kit. It should arrive tomorrow, this WIP really got me excited, will probably start working on it as soon as I get home after work. Thanks for all your hard work Syd!

  4. Damien Payne says:

    Syd, I love the fact that you’ve gone that one step further with painting those vents in gold.

    I do however have this compulsive side of me that wants to get as close to the gold mechanical plating as possible with those parts. I will be forever searching for the right colour.

    That gold, nay any decent metallic finish is improbable to find and keep.

  5. Krow says:

    Been Thinking if i could spay paint those silver parts with Tamiya TS-76 Mica Silver would that be good or a bad idea? . .

  6. Spitz says:

    I kinda wish they release a 1/100 version of this…

  7. Ivan says:

    Hello, do you spray H2 runner just with some “gold” (btw, what paint you used?) or you first used primer, then “gold” paint?

  8. Alcedo says:

    Hi Syd….. nice job on the building report, compact and yet very detailed. Hope you can write the review as soon as possible, because it will determine if this kit worthy to buy or not. I have watched a youtube review saying that this kit have problems like parts are quite loose and prone to fall off and the waist joint is not strong enough for the enormous backpack and it became wobbly.

Leave a Reply