Gaijin Gunpla

This monster kit’s box contents were shown in the First Look post and now it’s time for me to show you what to do with all those plastic pieces. Likely, this kit is very different from any of the MGs that came before so I’ll be showing a lot of photos (I took 151 last night) and I’ll also be pointing out some difficult areas and including suggestions on how to do things so that the build goes smoothly for those people picking up this kit.

The build starts with this!

Yup. You’re building the stand first but there is something different about it. The arm seems a little short, doesn’t it?


That will never work.

Actually, right away you are shown that there are two ways to build the stand.

If you want your FATB (that’s what I’m calling it now) to be displayed flying you use the two C1 parts and make a longer arm. If you want it to stand on the ground you just use the one arm. You can change back and forth at any time. Great idea on Bandai’s part. I went with the shorter arm because I want mine standing to start with.

Now for the Emergency Pod which looks very similar to a Core Fighter.

First the pilot’s seat.

Note the pilot has no legs. Poor guy.

Now I slide a small part into the nose, is that the nose?, and then follow that with the pilot’s seat.

I’ll leave that for a moment and take a part of the A frame, two smaller frame parts off the B runners, and two very small red parts off the K runners.

Those K parts are tiny.

Add the canopy and attach the cockpit to the body.


It’s so cute!

Add the front landing gear.

Build two of these things.

And two of these things which are almost like those other things.

Take one of each of those things and add them to two longer arms.

Then plug them into the what you’ve built of the Pod so far.

At this stage you have this.

This is actually finished but you have to configure it.

Like an X.

Sebulba.

That does look cool. After building it you have to transform it so close those little arms again.

Fold in the smaller parts on the end.

Fold it in against the body of the Pod.

And push it into the main body. There you go.

But you also have to retract the landing gear.


Now he’s ready.

But he has to wait.

The MS itself starts by building the shoulder joints.

Note that notch in the circle in that middle part that looks like a poly-cap.

It has to be pointing in a specific direction. Then you insert that into another poly-cap looking part that also has to be aligned a very certain way.

You build another for the opposite side and then set those into the frame part for the upper chest.


The fit is perfect.

Next assemble the lower torso section.

Combine the torso sections and add the blue collar.

Follow that up with more blue armour.

Then add the red parts for the upper torso and vents.

Add the cockpit hatch and the neck frame parts.


Really nice so far.

This is the start of the backpack. Two small, red, square thrusters onto two small arms that plug into sockets in the backpack frame piece.

Add one more small frame part on the left side before putting on the armour part.

Now to add a mechanism that can hold a Beam Saber handle.


Attach that to the torso with a small click.

(If you get a big click that’s probably fine too however with this new softer plastic the click is much smaller now, I find.)

Next up is the head and you’re presented with a choice immediately.

A4 (clear) or A28 (yellow)? Hmm. I went with the clear.

Combine whichever I part you chose with a larger clear part and add the eye part and chin piece.

Next add the face mask.

It’s here that you can put on the eye stickers but why use eye stickers if you’ve chosen something most likely because of how it looks. Won’t those stickers just render your choice moot?

I left them off.

Add the frame parts.

Now you are presented with more choices!

This involves where you put the sensor stickers. You can choose to put them on the front or just behind the front clear section of the part.


The same applies for the back sticker.


I went with the second choice (behind) because I like the effect it produces.

After making your decision put the centre piece in place and then put the armour parts on around it.

It’s tough to tell from this photo but the clear sections that extended out around the face mask actually fit perfectly into those little rectangular openings on either side of the face mask.

It’s a nice effect.

Add one frame part to the forehead and then slide in the centre armour part at a diagonal angle.

Now for the V fins, etc.

The et cetera is a little needle looking thing that goes on the side of the head.

Nice.

Niiice.

Now for the arms and for the arms you’ll need this.

Wait a minute. Aren’t those the stand parts you mentioned at the beginning?

Yes, they are. I had to detach the one arm from the base and combine it with its twin to give me the length I need.

Why do I need length?

That’s why.

The first step of building the arms requires you to prepare the frame cover (thin) sleeves.

Slide it onto the stand arms and then scrunch it together from both ends.

You should have something that looks like this.

Ok. I’ll give it a shot!

I guess that’s okay. I found an easy way to do it. Stand the stand arm up vertically with one end on the table and push down on the sleeve using one hand to grip both upper corners.

It’s much easier than trying to hold the arms while at the same time push from both ends with your hands and give you an even scrunch.

Okay, those are ready.

Assemble two arm frames.

Assemble two shoulder joints.

You’ll have to plug these two parts together a certain way and then rotate one section around to lock it in.



This concept comes up again.

So let’s do the right arm.

Straighten the shoulder joint to allow you to slide the frame cover on all the way.

You’ve got to bunch up the frame cover at the end so you can slide a frame part on to hold it in place.

It’s got to push up right against the arm frame and be straight.

Now you are supposed to cut off the excess underneath that frame part.

Don’t use your side cutters. Use a knife.

Lay that into the lower armour part along with a poly-cap that will be used to secure the hand.

Now things get crazy. You are supposed to bend the arm completely to stretch out the frame cover to the max.

This kind of sets the working length. You’ve also got to add the two elbow armour parts, the little circles, E10. I found the easiest way to do that was to use a toothpick and rub the elbow joint until the two holes were visible.


Bunch up the other end of the frame cover and slide the upper arm armour piece into place.



Add the cuff while you’re at it.

Bend the shoulder joint and bunch up the end of the frame cover.

(oops, didn’t rotate the picture.)

Now slide on a frame part until it touches up against the shoulder joint frame.

This is important but you won’t realise it at this time and you’ll be dealing with this later.

Cut off the excess frame cover leaving only the peg.

Make the wrist joint and slide it into the hand frame part.

Add the back of the hand and the thumb. Notice how the thumb is two parts?

Sweet.

Now add your fingers of choice. I always go for the closed fist at this stage.

But the open hand looks so cool.

There is one arm completed.

Now do it again.

I actually had a harder time on the second arm. The way the frame cover bunched up around the elbow made finding the little holes difficult.

Here are the shoulder frame parts.

You’ve got a bunch of vents (thrusters?) to add to that.

Now add the armour. I advise waiting. Allow me to explain.

Put the shoulders onto the arms and they are ready to go onto the torso.

Looking at the arm peg you can see a little bump in it at the bottom.

This has to line up with the space on the top part of the connection part.

This means you have to put the arms on upside down and then swing them down to secure them in place.

Here is where things get interesting and by interesting I mean perhaps a little more difficult than expected.

If you don’t have the frame part that you plugged onto the shoulder peg and pushed up against that joint all the way in place then you won’t be able to insert the shoulder peg into the connection piece on the torso all the way. However, you also can’t see the other side of that connection piece to determine if it’s all the way in so you won’t have a hint it isn’t until you swing the arms down into their proper position and feel some resistance. However, with this kit being of the softer plastic you won’t feel much resistance because that bump could be rubbing off as you move the arms down.

Allow me, Gaijin Gunpla, to give you advice on how you should approach this section of the build. It will likely save you time and prevent damage to your kit. First off, disassemble the shoulder joints inside of the torso.

Do not assemble the shoulders yet. There’s a chance you already have if you’re coming to this WIP late but if so that’s okay. You can disassemble the shoulders so you only have the connection piece involved.

Make sure the frame part that is pushed against the shoulder joint holding the frame cover in place is in as far as it can go. You may need to pull it away from the shoulder joint to unbunch and pull through the frame cover but you’ll eventually get it in the correct position. Then you can push a small part of the torso shoulder frame onto the peg and be able to see that the peg goes all the way through.

You can now reassemble the torso shoulder frame and line up your arm.

You can now assemble the shoulder around the arm and know that they are in the correct place.

If they aren’t assembled correctly those big shoulders will flow forwards and backwards loosely.

That completes the upper body assembly. Next is the lower body with the legs and… Oh my gawd!

13 Responses so far.

  1. Darth Mingus says:

    Looks complicated…

    The new joint covers should work much better than the rubber they used to give with the Patlabor kits and this solution looks better than the joints on the HG kit. I guess once you put them one, there is no way to take them off, which is kind of disappointing.

    Given the trouble with the arms, I am looking forward to the legs 😉

    As for the pilot, I thought only Zeon used war amputees as pilots…

    But seriously, I like having full size pilots in the cockpits so this is a deal breaker.

    Have you seen pictures of the P-Bandai exclusive hanger and weapon set for this kit? Will you be picking it up?

  2. Poixquared says:

    God lord.. I laughed at the part when you were building the emergency pod and mentioned about the pilot missing his legs.. So does that make Io even with Darryl? Oh the irony for the pilot figure. XD

  3. Lewis says:

    Well, it doesn’t look too complicated. Might save my money for the RG Sinanju though.

  4. Jeff says:

    Loving how this is looking so far. Is the antenna on the head movable like with the GP04 RE100?

  5. Michael says:

    >Note the pilot has no legs. Poor guy.
    This is especially ironic if you consider the story of Thunderbolt manga/anime.

  6. Paul says:

    So, with this release the pilot doesn’t have any legs.

    Wonder if the MG Psycho Zaku pilot figure doesn’t even have any limbs?

  7. Jango says:

    just so you know the FA Gundam has yellow eyes, not green. the clear green part is there simply for people who paint or want to modify the kit with LEDs.

    • S2 says:

      I want green eyes.

      • Jango says:

        that’s fine. but the problem with clear eyes is that you’re not really gonna be able to see them unless they’re illuminated either from the front or the back. this kit doesn’t have light piping so there’s no way to illuminate them from the back without modification.

        I like that alot of recent 1/100 kits have solid colored eyes molded separately from the rest of the face like the 1/100 IBO kits, MG RX-78-02, and this kit.

      • S2 says:

        You used the word problem. I don’t understand how choosing to not place a sticker at this time is a problem. Will my Gundam break if I haven’t put the stickers on?

      • Jango says:

        no, my point was that you don’t need stickers for this kit at all because they give you solid color eyes molded separately from the rest of the face.

        without proper light piping or an LED clear color eyes are going to be too dark to even see.

  8. Papiyoh says:

    Building the shoulder part seems complicated but interesting as this kind of build is somewhat new unlike the usual builds.

    Love the clear part for the eyes. Seems Bandai is doing away with foil stickers. Hope we’ll see this more on upcoming MG kits.

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