Five years ago when Bandai released the MG Victory Gundam Ver.Ka no sooner had people assembled it then fans were already clamouring for their V2. It didn’t come and not long after people gave up on the idea. Well, Bandai has gone ahead and released the 1/100 MG V2 Gundam Ver.Ka as their big release for December 2015. Did they wait five years so that it would coincide with the 35th anniversary of Gunpla just like the Victory arrived during the 30th anniversary? Did they need to wait five years because that’s how long it took to get the engineering to work? Is it on par with the Victory or has the five extra years allowed it to surpass it? I can’t answer the first two questions but in this review I will try to answer the third.
Overall Look: 10/10
I’ll come out with it right away. I prefer the look of the V Gundam over that of the V2. I’m not saying this kit looks terrible and the score I’ve given here reflects that, however I just think overall the look of the Victory appeals to me more. While they have so much in common the difference in the torso is striking. Those larger shoulders combined with the torso with that yellow V makes the V2, to me, appear kind of bulky up top. Like he’s very tense in the shoulders. Relax big guy. You look awesome!
I loved the colours on the V (and V Dash) and the V2 is definitely more of a good thing but his one includes the yellow lines running from top of the torso through the wings. It’s a nice edition to a nice colour scheme. When I reviewed the V-Dash Gundam I complained how the red trim on the elbows, knees, and side skirts was done using sticker and not plastic. Well, that has not changed for the V2. However, if my memory isn’t failing me, it appears Bandai has changed the design of those stickers. With the V2, instead of getting complete circles for stickers, you’re given two complete circles for use on the skirts.
But the stickers used for the elbows and knees are a round circle with a split in it.
This makes applying them, for some reason, much easier and produces a much nicer result.
If you compare what you get here to the contents of the V Gundam Ver Ka it is roughly the same. If you were to compare it to what comes in the V-Dash box you may be disappointed so maybe that’s an unfair comparison. You get the beam shield, the different beam sabres and the rifle. Interestingly, you are given an addition to the rifle so you can mount a barrel launcher on there.
You’ve got to pull the rifle apart to get the launcher on there but it isn’t a problem to disassemble and reassemble the rifle when you need to.
Also, the design of the rifle differs slightly from that of the V Gundam and is much more rigid. This is definitely a good thing.
I’m going to give this kit the same score the V-Dash received and for the same reason. This kit is engineered to come apart into individual components and combine to make the Top and Bottom Rims/Fighters. That’s where the effort went when it came to design. Due to that, articulation was a secondary concern. You’ll only really get the shoulders this high.
And the legs pretty much don’t turn outwards at all.
And due to those large wings protruding out the back he is more back heavy than the original V however because you’re not going to be moving the limbs much it doesn’t cause the kit to fall too often.
While V2’s range of movement can be considered disappointing compared to most other MG kits past or present what we really need to focus on when it comes to evaluating this new MG is discussed in the next section.
Build Design: 10/10
The V2, like the Victory before it, comes down to the transformation into its different modes. Here we see designs quite similar to the Victory’s, which shouldn’t be a surprise but we also see some changes that make the V2 much easier to handle in some ways.
The bottom portion differs from that of the Victory with quite a few of the torso parts being part of the lower body.
Once you’ve got the core fighters and both the top and bottom sections assembled you can then put together your V2 in its robot form. To do that you’ll need to line up some things that are sometimes hard to see.
The top half features some half-circles on the underside of the frame behind the rear skirt.
These have to fit onto some pegs found on the main frame of the lower half of the body.
The torso section of the lower portion has some hooks that will need to latch onto sections of the upper body.
If you get these lined up and pressed together securely you will have the base onto which to mount your Core Fighter.
You can open the centre skirt block and the hatch to give yourself room to insert that long Core Fighter nose.
So here’s the Core Fighter of the V2.
This is also different in design from the Victory. With the Victory you could slide the nose backwards which would pop the head up into place. It worked quite smoothly due to the sliding mechanism being quite free. The V2’s Core Fighter is much more rigid with the sliding mechanism being a slat in a groove rather than a peg. This means that you can’t just push back on the nose to get the head up. Instead, I found, it was easiest to focus on a certain piece in the Core Fighter. The white part you can find on the bottom.
When the nose is extended this piece lays flat kind of holding the nose in place. When you need to transform the Core Fighter first open the section that covers the head.
Then you can push up on that small white piece to get the head in place and create free space for your nose to move back into.
You then fold the nose up while pushing it in at a slightly different angle this time to finish up the transformation.
Remember, you’re given two Core Fighter like lat time!
One small difference between the V and V2 is the V fin. The original Victory had an optional flexible V fin you could use in place of the harder plastic. This flexed when you transformed the Core Fighter and pushed the head down into the small space that housed it when it Core Fighter Mode. You don’t get that extra on the V2. Both Core Fighters on the V2 are the same with the exception of one part you can add to the eyes of one of the fighters while you’re assembling the head.
So, if you remember, we have this platform onto which we are going to mount the Core Fighter. You can see it has four half circles pointing upwards.
Onto these you will line up the openings on the bottom of the Core Fighter.
You’ll need to insert the nose of the Core Fighter below a piece of plastic placed in the middle of the upper body which makes it more rigid.
And you’re dropping the Core Fighter on once that nose is inserted.
The V from five years ago had a torso engineered to open up to create space to work when you’re dropping the torso on but the V2 doesn’t have that design. Due to that it’s a little harder to work in that small space however the pay off is a much more rigid upper body.
Before I move on to the Top and Bottom Fighters I’ll talk about some of the gimmicks this guy has.
The coolest one is the way you can spread out the wings and open them up.
The front skirts can open though I’m not sure what function this serves.
The rear skirt also can open somewhat.
Again I’m not sure why it does this and it doesn’t stay open even if you’d want it to.
The shield connects the same way as with the Victory Ver Ka so I won’t bother to show that. Instead I’ll move onto the…
Rims and Bottoms! (giggity)
Let’s start out with the top. First thing to do is change the hands for the included claws.
Flip the lower section of the arms around and point the shoulders upwards.
Push the little flap in and up.
Then pull the blue section down revealing the frame underneath.
Once that’s pull out on the shoulders slightly and swing the arms over towards the back.
The white armour on the back of the elbow should rest on the blue piece from the shoulder.
Swivel the front skirts outwards.
Then flip the skirt over so the underside now faces out.
Bring the rear skirts to the front by swinging them from below.
A nice feature here is that there is a small opening on the sides of the front skirts that will fit onto a tab on the underside of the rear skirt holding things together.
With the Top Rim complete you can make the Top Fighter.
You’re just dropping the Core Fighter on from above the same way you would when putting the robot form together.
The rifle can attach rom below by turning barrel 90 degrees.
I do find that the small connection between the arms and the torso isn’t really strong enough to support the weight of the arms especially if the gun is attached. They will droop.
Now of the Bottom Rim.
Start with the feet turning the heel armour piece down.
Then turn the front of the foot up.
This is actually quite cool. The middle of the bottom of the foot has a red armour plate that will move out of the way when you’re transforming the kit.
Now things get funky.
Turn the torso section of the Bottom Rim upwards.
Detach the skirt armour from each other.
Swing them out only 45 degrees and then flip the legs up.
You are meant to try and get the pegs found on the skirt frame to attach the the half circles that are used to secure the Core Fighter when you’re making the robot. I think.
Flip the cockpit hatch to the other side.
Then you can drop the Core Fighter on while swivelling the legs up slightly.
Again the weight of the legs may be too much for the poly-cap ball joint that is used to connect the legs to the skirt and there will be some drooping.
Still looks cool though.
When all is said and done it’s an impressive piece of engineering.
However, that doesn’t mean it’s without its flaws. I am experiencing some frustration with the arm. The elbow joint is a hook which you can’t see very well, or at all, due to the armour piece.
That hook, it seems, comes unattached quite easily leaving you with a dismembered limb.
This happens often.
Fun Factor: 9/10
I can’t claim the V2 Gundam is revolutionary because I’ve already experienced the Victory however outside of the Victory and V2 MGs you won’t find something this small and this complex in the Master Grade line. They are unique unto themselves. Sure some of the instructions aren’t too clear, or I just didn’t understand what I was doing at the time, and I felt some frustration when assembling the Core Fighter with one important piece not wanting to co-operate but once I got the sections assembled and the V2 whole I was very pleased with myself.
Of course, you get the extra hand parts same as with the Victory.
You’re given stand adapters in clear plastic.
The extra pilot figure.
Clear landing gear parts to allow you to display the unused Core Fighter when you’re in robot mode.
And waterslide decals (aka, Decal Hell)!
You’re not given stickers like you were with the Victory. It looks like what I was told by a Bandai unit director is true; Ver Ka kits will be coming with Waterslides.
You’re even given some decals that don’t appear on the marking guide (or at least I can’t find them.)
Yay, free stuff!
People are undoubtedly going to ask me which is better the Victory Ver Ka or the V2 Ver Ka. They are so close that I can’t really render a verdict. I find the look of the Victory better but the engineering on the V2, particularly the torso, to be more structurally sound. You really can’t miss with either kit though you’ll need to be more patient with a kit like this than you would need to be with other MGs. If you like a challenge or something different then you’ll definitely like this kit.