Gaijin Gunpla

In the previous post I had completed up to the arms on the Hyakushiki 2.0 but never put them on because I hadn’t built the shoulders. That’s where I started when I sat down to continue the newest MG.

They start with four frame parts and one smaller gold one.

Once the frame parts are together you add some red pieces.

Then the gold armour parts are put in place.

Once completed the shoulder clips onto the shoulder joint from above and rests there as you push the arm onto the peg. This is similar to what we see with Real Grade kits.

From there you build the skirt and it’s quite different from what I’m used to seeing from normal (meaning non-transforming) MG kits.

You assemble two halves which aren’t mirror opposites of each other.

Next you’ll assemble this section.

Then you combine the two.

Now you can add the gold armour and back and rear skirts.





You’ll leave the side skirts off for now.

Ankle joints. Yes, I wrote ankle and not hips.

The foot frame assembles the same way as that of the Nu Gundam Ver Ka.


You put all the red on first before going to the gold.


There is some bend forwards in the foot.

Here are the hip joints.

And the leg assembly starting at the knee.

Once the knee assembly is complete you add the parts for the upper leg.

This little assembly is for the bottom of the leg near the ankle.


When assembling the lower leg frame you will include some silver-coloured parts.


Up to this point you were building both legs at the same time but from here it’s right then left.

Right leg first.


Armour parts for the upper leg.

Lower leg parts.

Add a small red piece before putting on the gold part for the inside of the knee.

The opposite side has a much larger red piece.

These legs bend quite a bit.

Now the side skirts.

Bottom half looking good.



The thruster assemblies have some small pieces that can prove tricky for clumsy finger guys like me.


The main portion of the backpack is done so now I have to get the wings on there. Here are the joints for that.

And prepare the lower wings.

Lay a small gold piece inside to fill the whole and then place the bottom wing inside.

Place the silver part inside and then close up the top section and you’re done. It’s quite simple.

The other wing is built the exact same way except that the smaller gold part goes in the opposite side.

This part of the build got to me. I’ll explain in detail later on in the review.

Attach the ball joints to the wings. They won’t slide right on but will need to be forced a bit.

Backpack complete!

But I’ve still got a rifle, and a bazooka(?), to assemble.







And two beam sabre handles.

And he’s done. Here’s a teaser.

Categories: Builds, Hyakushiki 2.0, MG

9 Responses so far.

  1. KHChong says:

    Hey Syd, just curious, is the whole outer armor undergated? seems like a very sexy looking kit.

  2. chris says:

    looks like a very interesting build.(that’s been built very well I’ll add) just a question
    do you find it more fun to build kits without recording the build or not?

  3. chris says:

    looks like a very interesting build.(that’s been built very well I’ll add) just a question
    do you find it more fun to build kits without recording the build or not?

  4. Frankon says:

    Did i see right that the shoulder pieces arent undergated….

    Syd. Were there many mekki pieces that werent undergated?

  5. Jacob says:

    Hi Syd, nice review there, and the kit itself (a Hyaku Shiki) were always interesting. But so sorry for such a fool question which i will be asking, but can someone explain to me what was the meaning of “undergated”, and what’s the difference between the gold color in this kit and the one we saw on for example: HG Oowashi Akatsuki, titanium finish or gold on MG Phenex which to the best of my knowledge they were platted. I’m so little acknowledge when it came down to model kit customization term.. LOL
    Thanks before..

    • Jae says:

      I think I may be able to provide some clarity for you in Syd’s absence. Undergating refers to nub marks on the removed pieces of plastic being on the hidden face of the part, so that they’re not visible when you assemble the kit.

      In terms of the finish on this kit, it is a different finish to the full-mekki coated plates seen on the akatsuki/rg strike freedom’s dragoon frames. This one has a more mattte finish

    • Nick says:

      Undergating is where they put the nub mark under a piece so that you don’t see discolouration where you cut the piece off (it’ll leave little black marks as the gold is plated over the top).
      The gold on this model is more of a matte gold rather than a super glossy chrome gold on most other gold kits. It means that it doesn’t attract fingerprints and dust from all over the room.
      Hope this helped.

      • Nick says:

        Here’s what the regular chrome (like Phenex and Akatsuki) looks like compared to the Hyaku Shiki 2.0 chrome. You’ll notice that the Sumo’s gold is way shinier and reflective than the Hyaku Shiki 2.0. http://imgur.com/Cc7s6Sx

      • Jacob says:

        Thanks for the explanation you both 😀
        Yes Nick I can see the difference, that’s why I’m wondering, hehee.. So it means this Hyakushiki is platted too?
        IMHO, the gold in this ver. 2.0 fits perfectly with hyakushiki and the more I see, it looked more classy than the other gold plate.. just my opinion though.
        Kind of pricy to me for what seem to be not a very complex build gunpla CMIIW, but the finishing makes it worth..
        Nice pic by the way! cool! 😀

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