Gaijin Gunpla

I was under the impression that, though we’ve never seen an Real Grade frame like that found on the new RG Strike Freedom, it was identical to other RG frames aside from the colour. Well, let’s proceed with the sample I’ve been given and see if those impressions turn out to be correct.

The foot appears to be the same.

The frame is the same as that of similar, previously-released RG kits which shouldn’t come as a surprise as the RG Freedom was the fifth kit in the series and we’re now on number fourteen.

The armour goes on very similarly as well though there are a couple sections you connect together first before attaching to the frame.



No new tricks for the ankle armour.

Now to the leg frame.

This is where I might have discovered something. Like I do with all my Real Grade builds, before I put any armour onto the molded-together-on-one-runner frame I bend the joints to make sure they are loosened up. When I bent the RG Strike Freedom’s leg I got to a certain point and then heard a pop. Or was it a snap? Likely it was a snap so small it sounded like a pop. What made that sound?

The connection breaking. I’ve never experienced a break like this though the first RG, the RX-78-2 Gundam, did have some issues with the upper leg but they weren’t the same as what I saw see here. What would cause this to snap like this? Well, if you look at the picture here you will see a little tab of plastic coming out of the underside of the piece that broke. I’m not sure what that little tab is for but that little tab acted as some kind of stopper once I go the leg bent to a certain degree (like in this image).


And actually prevented the leg from bending any more resulting in the piece breaking. As it’s the upper leg frame this will be covered by armour but still knowing it’s broken inside will gnaw at me for some time.

Once you’re finished lamenting your lack of due care it’s time to apply the first of the frame parts.

And then the last of the leg frame parts.

And after that you can start to put on the armour pieces starting with the dark blue parts, and white parts for the bottom of the leg.

The side of the legs then take these parts. I like their shape.


Add the upper armour and knee parts and you’re done.

That was pretty quick. The left leg is the same so let’s skip that and move onto the skirt. Here’s the frame we’re familiar with.

Add the parts for the centre blocks both front and back.

But the side skirts give us something new. The rear skirts involve an assembly I’ve not seen before in a Real Grade.


Let me try that!

First put the two gold parts together.

This then clips into the back of the skirt.

Now slide this onto the connector point on the skirt frame.

The front skirts, however, are what we have come to expect.

Gold torso frame!

Fold the shoulder pegs back.

Add one large frame piece for the chest and the blue part for the lower torso (first removing the frame part that is meant for the side skirts).


When you go to put on the rear torso armour part you first have to pop in the small pieces that will cover the shoulder joints.


Attach a small connection piece to the front torso piece.

Slide that on and then put in the very small vents. Be sure there are no gate nubs because these small suckers won’t fit in if there are.


The cockpit hatch is just these two pieces.

Of course this opens and closes.


Now for something completely different. Take that frame part that is meant for the side skirts and fold those connections to the back.

Then put in replacement side connection parts attached to the bottom torso armour piece.

Plug that onto the torso and you should have this. (Unless I’ve done something wrong. In which case you should have something better than this.)

Now put your upper and lower bodies together.

The arm frame looks to be the same as that on the other RGs but after what I did to the leg frame I was very careful just in case.

And bend. And stretch. Bend again. Now relax. And 1. And 2. You can do it. And good.

Add the frame parts.

And the upper arm armour pieces.

And, of course, the armour parts for the lower arm.

Notice the little diagonal opening on the lower arm. That is supped to be there (from what I can tell).

Make this thing.

And slap it on the Gundam. I actually let Gai-Gun Jr put it on because she wanted to help before bed time and though I think she put it on upside down I decided to keep it that way for her. I’m sure people will be pretty quick to point it out. 😉


The shoulders start with these two parts.

Which fit via a groove in the underside of the white armour parts.


Now add frame parts.

Wait, I’m adding frame parts now and not at the start?

That’s right, Bob. Put the frame parts on and then add the top armour part and all that’s left is the lone red piece.

The connection for the red piece is a little different than one would expect.


And check this out. This shoulders expands!

When I got to the head I realised that I hadn’t used any gold foil stickers any where on the frame during the assembly. I thought that was odd until I remembered that the Strike Freedom is all gold all over so foil stickers would just be redundant. The first dab at that massive sticker sheet comes when you put the eyes on.


Man, that’s small.

(My mother-in-law, who has been staying at my house while my father-in-law had his surgery and works towards recovery, has always known I build these things but has never watched me actually do it. She was watching me build this one and couldn’t believe how small the parts were.)

Put these two piece together to start the head.


Then add these unseeable-by-mother-in-laws small parts.


Then add the armour.


And V fins!

These connect to the Gundam’s head by relatively large square pegs that slide deep into the head.

They are quite secure and you don’t need to worry about them falling off. You do need to worry about something else, however…

Attacking as soon as I got back from work the same day I think I did fairly well.

Categories: Builds, RG, Strike Freedom

18 Responses so far.

  1. Kefka says:

    The snap worries me since the frame is ugly enough I want to spray paint it

  2. scid says:

    I hate the gold frame..have to paint it after I received mine

    • greanseal says:

      Is it even possible to paint the inner frame?
      What I mean here is: completely neat, with minimal articulation disruption.
      RG’s Runner B is pre-build from the factory…

  3. GNParticles says:

    Surely it would have been cheaper for Bandai to have the frame black and put a can of gold paint in the box 🙂 Seriously though, is there anyone who regularly paints Gundam not going to paint the frame on this – it looks awful.

  4. YongKang says:

    NOOOO!!! OMG!!!! why Bandai? Another faultive frame spotted beside those GP01s.Have to question about their quality control….

    • ron pogi says:

      no dont say that….you should understand that the plastic used for the inner frame for RGs are too soft or brittle(?). I even think that its softer than ABS plastic used for joints in replacement for polycaps. Having it gold plated would ruin the frame. Even with PROPER color molding…you will still get a ‘puke gold’ quality because of the type of plastic. Painting it is a good solution but without proper handling…joints will become stiff. Thanks 😛

      • YongKang says:

        The color dosen’t bother me but they should revise their rg frame plastic formula to make it a little bit sturdier.

    • Michael says:

      The “gold” plastic is the softest of all, so that’s kinda expectable, just as clear parts are always brittle.

  5. Kikokix says:

    Is it just me or the legs is kinda short.

    • christian says:

      it actually depends on your accepted or preferred proportions. if you are so used to the katoki’d PG, then this will really appear with shorter legs.

      for someone like me that got two seed RG that uses the same frame, I would say that it is about right. But then again, that is just me 😀

  6. King Justin says:

    Just to chime in (a year later) I painted the frame on this RG (you had too; look at that thing). I probably over did it with 2 light coats of gold primer then 2 light coats of shimmering gold BUT even with all that I haven’t had any articulation issues and very few assembly issues; really all that happens is it’s a bit harder to assemble the frame, and thus you must push a bit harder to assemble, but still be careful since it’s an RG. I was lazy and painted it on the sprue, worked great, took very little time and looks about 1,000x better than the unsightly urine-gold that preceeded it

    • gates77 says:

      just out of curiosity, if i didnt apply any primer and just straight spray paint it with gold, will it be alright? i also think of applying top coat flat after that to avoid chipping

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